Japan #4, Busan/Korea | 부산, Nagasaki | 長崎, Yokohama | 横浜
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Shimabara Castle – Welcoming party sending us off
Busan, Korea
The second largest city in South Korea, Busan is gateway to a fascinating land whose culture is a unique amalgam of old and new. Known as Korea’s summer capital for its superb beaches and impressive hot springs, Busan is also famous as a guardian of its history. Busan is a microcosm of South Korea, a nation whose startling economic success often obscures one of Asia’s most sophisticated and venerable cultures. Tranquil yet energetic, modern yet traditional, Busan is a city that embraces its past while keeping its eye on the future.
My husband and I are Korean historical TV drama junkies. We were looking forward to going to Busan for its historical events. At the Bokcheon Museum (located where Bokcheon Tombs are) relics and artifacts from the pre-historic era to the Three Kingdom period that spanned from the 1st century B.C. to the 6th century A.D. are displayed. Among the fascinating exhibits are displays of ancient helmets, earthenware and weapons excavated from around Busan and the tombs of the nearby burial ground. We were able to fully comprehend the articles with the images we had seen on TV.
Nagasaki
Our ship, Diamond Princess was welcomed elaborately at Nagasaki port by the locals, because the ship was built by Mitsubishi Heavy Industry in Nagasaki.
For most travelers, Nagasaki is a symbol of the horror and the inhumanity of war. An estimated 75,000 people perished in 1945 when the city became the second target of a nuclear attack. Today, Nagasaki’s Peace Park and Atomic Bomb Museum draw visitors from around the world. Nonetheless, this beautiful city on Kyushu offers other sights. Often described as the San Francisco of Japan, the city occupies verdant hills surrounded by a deep-water bay. For three centuries, Nagasaki was Japan’s sole window on the world. The city is also celebrated as the setting for Puccini’s opera “Madame Butterfly.”
Nagasaki is known for castella which is the most favored souvenir. Also, outside Nagasaki is the mountain town where Arita porcelain was born 400 years ago. During their yearly Porcelain Fair, literally thousands of merchants jam the streets, selling exclusive examples.
Shimabara Castle & Samurai Village
Northeast from Nagasaki, passing scenic Ariake Bay en route to the mountainous Shimabara Peninsula is a charming, well preserved, 16th century town featuring a samurai village and a superbly reconstructed feudal castle. Shimabara Castle is situated in the center of this historic old town, and is a superlative example of the classic Japanese castle design known as the Flatland style. Matsukura Shigemasa initiated the construction of Shimabara Castle in 1618 and it took six years to complete. He raised taxes to pay for its construction, which was one of the factors behind the Shimabara Rebellion of 1637-38 (15 min video documentary in two parts, Pt 1, Pt 2). Destroyed once, the present castle is a 1964 reconstruction, although the moat and stone walls are from the original structure. The castle is now used as a historical museum, centering on the 1637 Battle of Shimabara. Exhibits focus on early Christianity in Japan as well as a collection of swords, armor and cultural artifacts.
A walking tour through the charming cobblestone streets of Shimabara is an opportunity to learn more about the historic area, and a visit to a traditional ‘samurai village’ offers a glimpse into the ways of Japan’s warrior class.
Yokohama
Yokohama and Edo (current Tokyo) began life as sleepy fishing villages. That changed in the early 17th century after Tokugawa Ieyasu became Shogun. Edo became the center of political power in Japan, a position the city retained even after the restoration of Imperial rule in 1866. Today, one of Japan’s major ports, Yokohama is a major commercial hub of the Greater Tokyo Area.
As mentioned in Japan #1 of this series, every segment of the cruise was round-trip Yokohama. After 9 days of the first round, we were in Yokohama. We decided to explore the Red Brick Warehouses, historical buildings originally used as customs buildings, but now a complex which includes trinkets and clothing boutiques, restaurants, and event venues.
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Matcha, Japanese Green Tea
The Japanese tea ceremony, also called the Way of Tea (chanoyu 茶の湯 , sadō, chadō 茶道), is a Japanese cultural activity involving the ceremonial preparation and presentation of matcha, ‘powdered’ green tea.
The Basis of Tea Ceremony
When grinding tea, do it quietly.
Vigilantly with care.
Clean your tea-things frequently.
Like the human heart/mind, they are easily tainted.
Fill the tea dipper with hot water.
Then add the same amount of tap water to it.
Do not waste any of it.
This may have been said by Sen no Rikyū, the historical figure with the most profound influence on sadō, particularly the tradition of wabi-cha. He was also the first to emphasize several key aspects of the ceremony, including rustic simplicity, directness of approach and honesty of self. [Excellent 29 min video on origin, history and production of matcha → here.]
At a tea ceremony, Japanese sweets, wagashi, the essence of Japanese culture, are served. Over a decade of training is necessary to create one of these delicate, magnificent pieces of art. Since I am not qualified, I will take a simpler approach to making a dessert with matcha, an ingredient also used to make green tea ice-cream. Good matcha tea is quite expensive, but not much is needed to make a delicious dessert. Fortunately, I found a reasonably priced packet at a Japanese grocery store.
Read interesting background on→ Crème Bavaroise and → Marie-Antoine Carême who is credited with it.
Matcha Crème Bavaroise | 抹茶ババロア
Recipe by: Fae’s Twist & Tango (fae-magazine.com)
INGREDIENTS
• 7 g / ¼ oz / 2¼ tsp unflavored, powdered gelatin (or, 2¼ tsp / 4.5 gr agar-agar)
• 5 g / 1¹/³ tsp matcha
• 100 g / ½ cup granulated sugar
• 150 ml / 2/3 cups heavy whipping cream
• 2 egg yolks
• 350 ml / 1½ cups cold whole-milk
• ½ tsp pure vanilla extract
DIRECTIONS
◊ Have ready… six 120 ml / 4 oz (1/2 cup) dessert glasses, molds -or- a 720 ml / 24 oz mold
-or- a 720 ml serving bowl to serve in.
◊ Prepare a big bowl with water and ice and set aside.
◊ In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin powder over ¼ cup of the milk and let bloom for 10 minutes.
◊ In a small bowl, add 1 Tbsp sugar and matcha, whisk well, and set aside.
◊ Place beater’s mixing bowl and whisk attachment(s) in the freezer/refrigerator for 15 minutes. Whip the heavy cream to soft peak. Put in refrigerator until needed.
◊ In a medium-sized bowl, whip the egg yolk with the remainder of the sugar, until pale and foamy.
◊ Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, on high heat, heat milk until very hot, and immediately turn off and remove from heat when it starts boiling.
◊ Making crème anglaise: While vigorously whisking the egg yolks/sugar, pour hot milk in a stream. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Place the saucepan on heat. Stir continuously with silicone spatula until hot, and starts thickening. Do not let it boil. Turn off the heat and remove saucepan from heat.
Note: – Use a silicone spatula to scrape the bowl clean – the bowl will be used again.
. . . . .– Hopefully the saucepan doesn’t have scorched milk at the bottom. If so,use a new saucepan.
◊ Add 3 Tbsp of crème anglaise to matcha/sugar, dissolve very well and add back to the saucepan. Add bloomed gelatin and stir constantly, until gelatin is completely melted. Pour through a fine-mesh, into the bowl (used to whisk the egg yolks) to remove any lumps, and refine the mixture. Place the bowl over the ‘big bowl’ with water & ice, and keep stirring the egg-mixture until cool. Once cooled, add the vanilla.
◊ In several batches, add the whipped cream and fold (don’t leave any white streaks), which is now ready to be poured into the prepared mold(s). After the mold(s) is/are filled, gently tap the mold(s), place on a tray and chill in refrigerator for 4+ hours or until fully set.
◊ To easily unmold, very briefly hold the mold(s) in warm water two-thirds up, take out and rotate to see if the bavarois is loose. Place a serving plate over the mold and invert. If inverting a large mold, first wet the serving platter. This will help center the bavarois after unmolded by shaking the plate and slide in place. Garnish with colorful fruit(s) and serve.
Tip: To smooth any flaws after unmolding, dip a flatware teaspoon in hot water for a few seconds, wipe with paper-towel and use like an iron on the area needing smoothing.
~ どうぞめしあがれ • Douzo Meshiagare ~
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I love the part on the tea ceremony how interesting, and I love matcha, flavor is so nice in desserts, especially since we love green tea
Oh yes! Matcha has an adult taste. Adds character to the desserts.
This dessert looks heavenly, Fae. And your site looks spectacular, too. Haven’t visited in awhile, and that’s too bad for me! I love your international viewpoints, especially as I’ll have to experience Japan vicariously… I know I will never get there in person. Currently I posted an ode to my Mom, which you might like. I suspect you and she have a similar sense of style,:). xo Sharon
– Hello Dear Sharon! So good to see you here. I just visited your blog and read the beautiful tribute to your most talented Mom. I am honored that you think I have similar sense of style like your Mom.
– Never say never, my friend. Everywhere in the world is getting closer and more accessible. Thank you for the kind comments. xo Fae.
Your Matcha Creme Bavaroise looks so delicious and great color!
Gorgeous Fae. I hear a Samurai exhibit is currently at LACMA.
That is interesting. I heard, there are more samurai katana/swords outside Japan (by collectors) than in Japan. I wonder?
A very informative traveler’s post, dear Fae! I love it too! That dessert is calling my name & mouth, of course too! x
Sophie, you are a joy. I wish I could send it to you. 😀 )))
I’m enjoying your tour…you are a very informative guide.
Love your tip on how to “iron” out any flaws.
Thank you very much, Karen. You are always kind to me. Isn’t it exciting when we find new tricks? 😀 )))
Such an interesting post Fae – my son is a bit of an Japanophile so I have some inkling of the intricacies of the culture but your posts are just so illuminating – I always learn so much! You really have had an amazing trip, thanks so much for taking the time to document it all on here. Your matcha bavarois is gorgeous – I especially like the tip of using a hot dry spoon to iron over any lumps – brilliant! I have some matcha powder which I bought in anticipation of making some matcha flavoured ice-cream in the summer – I may need to try this instead! x
Thank you very much, Selma. I’m so glad you found my posts on Japan trip interesting. They’re long but I have put in many hours to make them informative, and comments like yours make it all worth it. I have 3 more Japan posts to complete the series. I understand your son very well. Japan has a magic for the focused, opened minded and intuitive. If you have not yet been to Japan, please put it in your plans. Oh, about the the hot dry spoon… you can add it to your list of Tips & Tricks! 😀 )))
I’d like to have one of these small bavaroise on my kitchen counter every day… the delicacy of the color of the green tea with the red strawberry on top makes this cake very elegant. I’m sure that even my messy kitchen will appreciate its beauty!
My goodness, dear Margherita. I always think that with every one of your recipes/posts. I’m sure you can make bararoise with closed eyes. I do understand, matcha adds another color/flavor to what is already an adored recipe. Thank you for your generous comment and I will keep smiling today and many whistle too. 😀
What a pretty dessert and thanks for sharing glimpses of your trip!
Thank you so much, Nancy, for your kind words.
How beautiful Fae & such an informative post! Thank u!!
Thank you, and I’m glad you liked it.
Wish I could taste it
Matcha produces the most beautiful coloured desserts Fae – it’s such an intriguing ingredient! Can you tell me, is it a strong or subtle flavour that it imparts? So pretty… I can’t wait to see what other desserts you make with your package of Matcha!
The amount of matcha I used gave just the right amount of flavor, a very delicate taste. Ooo, just thinking about what I am going to make next time excites me. 😀 )))
I’m taking my breakfast and reading your post, Fae. Post after post I discover the beauty of Japan. Your Matcha Crème Bavaroise looks delightful and the green pastel color is beautiful
Thank you for sharing!
I think I’m going to read again Yasushi Inoué (The Ceremony of Tea)
Thank you, thank you, Linda.
As you know, tea ceremony is more than just having tea in a formal way. It teaches the way of thinking and living. So fascinating. That is where Japan is so intriguing. In every art, including martial arts, it is all about way of heart and mind. <3
HI Fae, I had to stop by and read more about your wonderful cruise. We had actually considered something similar for this past summer but ended up doing a river cruise instead. Love your stories and of course, your lovely recipes that you share with each one. Wishing you a wonderful holiday season!
Hi Danny! Thank you for the visit! Don’t go to Japan in the summer… too humid. Late March ~ early April (cherry blossoms) or late Sept ~ early Oct (some foliage and seasonal great food) is best. Allow plenty of time. River cruise sounds so extravagant and delicious. Thank you for the lovely comment.
Hi Fae, yes, Spring or Fall sound like the best times. When I went to SE Asia this summer, it was so hot and humid, but I enjoyed it all despite the humidity and heat. I’d love toes the cherry blossoms in Japan — one day. Unfortunately, my Japan experience has only been in the airports during layovers
Yes, the river cruise was wonderful — but very different than a regular cruise ship — it was more about the wonderful ports of call and going off the beaten path and totally relaxing and quite once back on board. You’ll have to try it as well. Best!
That looks quite delicious. I haven’t tried cooking/baking with match yet. I must try to do so soon!
I went to Busan many years ago. Interesting city. I would love to go again sometime to appreciate more of it.
Then, I’m sure you went to the huge Lotte department store (which is actually Japanese). We went to Modern History Museum too. Which, I did not include either in my post. Our ship was suppose to go to Jeju too, but whether did not permit. I sure would love to go to Seoul someday.
My daughter Molly the Baker loves Matcha! I will surprise her with the Matcha Creme Bavaroise. Thank you for the great post and beautiful pictures.
Oh, how lovely, Vicki. Please let me know how it turns.
Thanks for the intro to matcha tea which is a healthier version of green tea. There are 4 grades – I am assuming you used grade 3 or 4? Beautiful presentation
I know matchas come in all kinds of names given by each ‘master’ tea maker. I am not an expert, I don’t know them by number, but I know they’re priced depending on their name hierarchies. They are picked according to the taste of each tea masters/aficionados’ by thicker/thinner, more/less bitter, darker/lighter etc. The inexpensive one I purchased in a grocery store in Japan is marked ‘for practice use’. Price was good and has beautiful color and taste.
Love the Japanese dessert so much! Aren’t they so beautiful? The finesse matcha should be so expensive though.
Oh, aren’t Japanese desserts something! 😛 For cooking/baking purposes, just get the smallest and cheapest ones made in Japan.
Wonderful, Fae, and very pretty presentation. Reminds me that I haven’t made bavarois in ages…
Thank you, Stefan. I hope I get the chance to see your recipe.
Beautiful Bavarian Cream and adding Matcha is brilliant. I love learning about the Japanese culture your posts are fascinating.
Thank you, Suzanne. Spending so much time on the article, to know someone has enjoyed it is a reward. Since I brought a bag of matcha from Japan, I like to used it many more desserts. Maybe an elaborate cake next time. 😉
Matcha is very much on my mind at the moment. When I went to the Japan Centre on Saturday all I could see everywhere was Matcha. I have heard of Matcha being used in bread but not as a Bavaroise. I could see on the shelves lots of different types of Matcha but other than the price I don’t really know what I am buying. Is there a big difference in quality? I can only imagine it is very much like the tea leaves we drink, the bigger the leaf the better the quality. I was also surprised to learn you are a Korean historical TV drama junkie, I had to read that bit twice, thinking I had read it wrong the first time!!
– Those many grades of matchas are for use of tea ceremonies or consumption as whipped ‘tea’ and are for people who are particular about the taste and consistency of the tea. For cooking purpose, smallest and cheapest of ‘Japanese made’ should work fine.
– We love Japanese historical programs, and can’t get enough of them. Next best thing is the programs on the Korean channel. Historical dramas have great stories and dialogues. Sometimes we search the new ones on the internet, and by connecting the laptop to the TV, we watch them. We laugh at our-self too, going that far. 😀 )))
How lovely!!! Looks like the trip of a lifetime!!!
Yes. Japan is really lovely and has so much to offer. So safe and so delicious. 😛
😀 )))
Beautiful bavarois Fae, i was tempted by a package of matcha recently but decided against it. It’s back to the Japanese grocers I go
How wonderful that you have a Japanese grocery store close to you. There are so many ways matcha can be used, especially in desserts.
The inner Melbourne area is very multicultural I just love the convenience of having foodstuffs from most of the world at my fingertips.
Fae, thank you so much for my mini vacation. Taking me through your travels with the pictures and story are exciting. What an honor to have tea made for you. Such an art.
I’m so glad you enjoyed it. Tea ceremony is quite an experience.
This looks soo inviting Fae. Really wanna try this but dont think i will get matcha here easily.
When you get a chance to be near a Japanese grocery store, check it out. Buy the smallest package and the least expensive one. If too expensive, just forget about it.